Path: hoho.quake.net!wetware!wsrcc.com!news.orst.edu!newsfeed.orst.edu!newsfeed.orst.edu!newshub.tc.umn.edu!fu-berlin.de!nntp.coast.net!chi-news.cic.net!neptune.tcn.net!usenet From: jphil@titan.tcn.net (Phil J.Stracke) Newsgroups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting Subject: Re: Need help with get-well kit Date: Sun, 30 Jun 1996 13:36:54 GMT Organization: A poorly-installed InterNetNews site Lines: 62 Message-ID: <4r5v89$f60@neptune.tcn.net> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: pjphil.tcn.net X-Newsreader: Forte Agent .99c/32.126 On Tue, 25 Jun 1996 00:29:19 GMT, spsycho@netcom.com (Brad Beerman) wrote: >I just got my Get-Well Kits from Zanen today and attempted to put one >in. I tried to take out the monitor board (I assume most people take >them out to solder on them?) but, a wire was going from the flyback to >the anode of the monitor. (I think I got the names right.) How do I >disconnect this wire? Thanks ahead of time... You disconnect this wire VERY carefully. The picture tube has a metal rimmed belly-button (inny) in it's surface, and the Anode lead has a U shaped metal clip whose tongs lock into the rim. The first thing you do is get a clip lead and connect it to the DAG ground-spring/strap of the picture tube (it usually has a black wire from it thats connected to the neck board). Next, get a flat screwdriver and connect its metal shaft to the other end of the cliplead. Making sure the power is off (DOH) take the grounded screwdriver and gently slide it under the edge of the rubber Anode insulator towards its center until you can peel up the lip of it with your other hand. Make doubly sure that the grounded 'driver contacts the metal parts at least twice to discharge any HV Static charge that may remain there. You may hear or see a large spark, especially if the tube was on (charged up) recently. On newer WG monitors, a bleeder circuit in the flyback removes most of this charge quickly when power is off, but don't count on this. Even if you see the spark, don't assume it's all gone yet, short it with the driver again just to be sure. You can now safely remove the clip by pressing one way and lifting out the opposite edge. You may still get (or feel) a slight static shock in this process. Not a big one :) If you do get a little charge on you make sure you discharge yourself before touching any game wiring or logic boards, by touching a ground. Be careful around the Anode button of the idle tube as well, it can recharge slightly while sitting, even after a discharge, due to the migration of still-ionized gases within the tube. This is because tubes do not contain absolute vacuums, they are more like ultra-low pressure oxygen-free atmospheres. 25-30 KV is a powerfull force - do not toy with it ! Make sure you install it securely when re-assembling as well, and give it a tug to be sure it's fully clipped in before power up. Discharging the tube (again) before re-inserting the Anode lead is also a good idea, unless you need recharging, yourself :) Don't use houshold cleaners or damp rags to wipe off this area of the tube or insulating cap as well, since dissolved salts can cause lower resistance, Arc "paths" to develop afterwards. This may degrade the excellent insulating properties of the connection area. _______________________________________________/ Phil J. Stracke jphil@titan.tcn.net ________________________________________________/